Costume National Menswear
Costume National Menswear
Costume National Menswear
Costume National Menswear
Costume National Menswear
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Costume National: Milan Opener
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Milan, Jun 24, 2002/FWD/ --- A kinder, gentler spirit pervaded proceedings at Costume
National, whose sensitive show opened the Italian catwalk collections here Sunday.
Costume this season was full of duds for dandy dissenters, so suits came loosely tailored
with a rumpled, lived-in finish, shirts were two-toned and pants were baggily poetic.
Designer Ennio Capasa has always done leather brilliantly and this season was no exception.
His cool suede shirt/jerkins in a mossy green, or baggy mud-colored trench coats with Aztec
metallic studs, would look great on scores of hipsters.
But Ennio’s best idea – and we seriously hope this will be picked up – was accessorizing
each look with chains, Coptic crosses, bronze brooches and small swords as pendants.
The look was fresh but never foolish.
In his program notes, Capasa explained that he found inspiration this season in a motley
crew of energetic iconoclasts including surrealist Luis Bunuel, singers Bob Marley and
John Lydon, and Carmelo Bene, the Italian stage actor.
"I wanted distinctive garments that can be combined according to the personality of the
people who wear them," said Capasa of this softer and, for this designer, more eccentric,
collection.
One of Bene’s most famous images was of himself portraying Christ with one hand hammered
onto the cross, using his teeth to swing a hammer in a continually vain attempt to nail
down his other hand.
But unlike that vision, which was meant to sum up the irrelevance of life, this collection
did have a strong point – composing fashion for natty nonconformists.
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Costume National Menswear
Costume National Menswear
Costume National Menswear
Costume National Menswear
Costume National Menswear
|
