PARIS, Mar 12, 2001/ --- Ennio Capasa, the designer and guiding light of Costume National, has a narrow oeuvre.

But at least it's a rich one.

Capasa's color palette is tight.

For Fall 2001, it's basically black, black and more black.

His attitude is edgy but strictly tailored, and his clothes are precise and sleek.

Fortunately, Capasa knows how to create a fresh spin each season, and his collection shown in the Museum of Decorative Arts was possibly the most complete and heroic he's designed.

Capasa doesn't attract celebrities, just fashion aficionados.

His coats were some of the best seen in any of the four Western fashion seasons.

He cut them wide in the shoulders and the pockets were pushed to the side to give a deliciously lean silhouette.

His transparent tops with opaque blocks were sexy and wearable, and his loosely-woven double sweaters were wonderfully louche.

Few people get sheer as well as Capasa.

Capasa's only flaw remains in the editing.

He slightly lost his audience by showing about ten too many outfits.

Other than that, his show was spot on.

Costume National

Costume National

Costume National