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Costume National: Cosmopolitan Man
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photo by Gruber-FWD
Milan, June 24, 2001/FWD/ --- The men's collections kicked off in Milan Sunday with Costume National, and
the big news here is that the label's designer, Ennio Capasa, has found himself a new muse.
Instead of the romantic rockers that dominated his recent collections, Ennio's got a new muse - the literary lion.
Capasa dedicated this collection to the "restless, cosmopolitan man," so put away the CD case and cigarette lighter
and hire a copy of François Truffaut's classic film "Jules and Jim" or brush up on the classic travel writing of
the late great Bruce Chatwin.
Capasa opened with some great waxed cotton trenches worn without any shirt tight to the body and toughened up
with funky straps and buckles.
The new Costume National might be an intellectual, but he still likes to party. Capasa whipped up some killer
shirts in semi-transparent lace, crushed cotton bomber jackets and baggy flares easy to slip out of when
an assignation demands.
On Sunday evening, Costume National threw a cocktail party in its revamped headquarters in Navigli, Milan's bucolic
canal area.
Capasa and architect Tiziano Vudafieri have created a beautiful new rooftop space composed of a translucent
showroom, long water pools and a spectacular cactus flowerbed settled in black volcanic lava. Chicly
cosmopolitan? I'll say.
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