DALLAS, May 5, 2007/ FW/ --- One of Ennio Capasa’s strengths as a designer is his ability to combine very different elements, sometimes from the opposite ends of the spectrum, and create highly covetable pieces. Call it virtuosity, if you will, because that is exactly what he did for Costume National’s Fall 2007 collection.

Using two diverse silhouettes – one is militaristic and mannish, the other one svelte and sexy, Ennio Capasa created Russian military inspired coats, peacoat and dresses that can only be described as formal, bordering on rigidity.

But, with sartorial details like a diagonal flap on the double-breasted coat, the belt lying on the hips, small darts on the waistline to define the woman’s figure, softness was added, thus creating allure and a tomboyish charm that is simply irresistible.

Bootleg trousers were cut slim, but do not constrict movement. Building on the ‘tomboyish’ appeal, the waist is just on the hips, but not low-waist. Wide and thin belts were alternately used, depending on the mood.

Case in point, a suede blouse with very thin placket, the raglan sleeves cut inside to create an inverted tulip effect, was matched with a wide nylon belt. On the other hand, a pair of leather pants sported a thin belt when it was teamed up with a silk blouse and collarless fur coat.

Half of the dresses were mannish, like the gray mini, the faux double-breasted look courtesy of six-buttons that was strategically placed to make the dress look boxy. With the oversized standing collar lined with fur, and one-side open, there was that playfulness again! If the silhouette were not so boyish, one would suspect that the look being presented was coquettish.

Even the evening dresses were given the same treatment, except that it was in reverse. Baring the shoulders and tracing the woman’s figure, they were very sexy. Then Ennio Capasa added sashes and straps, the way it is done in military dress uniforms.

Hence, instead of being overtly sexy, especially with that bare back, there was that ‘do not touch’ signal, which in turn made the look very alluring! Because, you know how it… when you tell someone ‘do not touch,’ they will do their best to do the opposite.

Costume National

Costume National

Costume National

Costume National