Dior Homme: Slimane's Magic Touch
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
PARIS, Jan 28, 2002/ FWD/ --- A large crowd pleaded to get into the Palais de Tokyo Sunday
afternoon for the presentation of the Christian Dior Homme fall-winter 2002 collection by
Hedi Slimane, the hottest name in men’s fashion today.
Their enthusiasm to see the latest ideas from Slimane was fully justifiable, as Hedi presented
a slickly produced, finely finished show full of new ideas that further cemented his reputation
at the cutting edge of men’s wear.
Besides being a highly original talent, Slimane also has his finger firmly on the contemporary
zeitgeist, and became the first designer to show in the recently reopened exhibition space
of the west wing of the Palais de Tokyo.
Slimane always attracts a heavy hitter crowd and this season drew the lord of luxe, and
Christian Dior owner, Bernard Arnault with wife Helene; flanked by Karl Lagerfeld and Pierre
Berge, long-time partner of Yves Saint Laurent, whose house launched Hedi’s stellar career
half a decade back.
The designer didn’t stray far from his signature razor slim silhouette; his pants are low
slung, bumsters rather than hipsters, his jackets close and his cuffs over-long on his teenage
models.
Like a lot of designers in this very formal season, he opened with pinstripes and herringbone
coats.
But his line and finish is always a bit more lean and mean, or arty and authoritative.
Slimane’s look is certainly a very young one -- from his exaggerated pant lengths so the
fabric rumples up the calf, or white shirts with sleeves cut off at the shoulder -- but it
has great pizzazz and freshness.
He’s a naturally assured tailor, whose proportions are just right.
Slimane’s big idea -- and it’s going to be a big hit -- were crests, chains and badges in
patterns on white shirts or the score of black jackets and redingotes that made up the finale.
"I thought the heraldry was just right for now, and it’s part of the heritage of the house,"
explained Slimane backstage.
Slimane took his bow, emerging from a small thicket of post-modern columns bathed in red light,
whose form mimicked the edge of his large, stiff white invitations with miniscule writing.
The show was highly convincing that collection is a sure-fire commercial hit, even if many
are still waiting for him to size up his clothes.
However, the French have a fine expression for what Hedi is doing: "Qui s’impose, impose."
It’s true that his clothes remain a demanding fit, which require most men over 30 not to
carry many excess pounds. But if Karl can lose 40 kilos in one year, why can’t the rest of
you make an effort?
Hedi Slimane for Dior Homme
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