Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane: Reflections in a Golden Mirror
By Timothy Hagy
(Photos by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Jan 28, 2003/ FW/ --- Last summer, at the invitation of Pitti Uomo, Hedi Slimane recreated the Hall of Mirrors of Versailles in an abandoned railway station in Florence. Even the central motif of the château's formal gardens made its way into the labyrinth. But what Hedi also evoked, in modern guise, was the quintessentially French approach to symmetry and balance.
At Dior Homme , the mirrors are full of reflections: the brilliance of the 18th Century flowing in scarves and tailcoats, the shining epaulets of boy soldiers; a romanticism of a time past, zapped into the here and now like the sharp pang of memory, long forgotten.
The gracefulness of light in play, the oblique approach to eroticism that permeates each Dior Homme collection.
The enlightenment of spirit that has freed menswear from the staid codes of convention, and jolted it into the 21st century.
And on the last evening of the Paris shows, Hedi's work again offered us a bewitching glimpse of the sublime.
The collection entitled 'Luster' unfolded at the Carreau du Temple to a star-studded crowd. Pierre Bergé, Karl Lagerfeld, Elton John, Bernard and Hélène Arnault and Catherine Deneuve sat together on a long, black bench.
Before the show, the hall was enshrouded in darkness, while enormous speakers, molded into the shape of snare drums, glowed red around the base before floating slowly upward.
Suddenly, a jolt of bright light flooded the stage, and the Dior Homme Fall/Winter 2003-04 collection blazed.
First out were exquisitely cut leather trenches, attached with leather streamers, and at times even braided together to create a veritable maze.
Lurex sashes trailed suits, while jackets and overcoats were shot with black sequin wounds.
Brilliance shown in the form of bracelets, strung of silver medallions that fell from the wrists like musketeer cuffs. Razor-cut suits were dusted with gold speckles, while a black turtleneck sweater was interwoven with silver thread.
For the finale, Spencer-like black jackets festooned with gold epaulets, the sleeves trimmed in fanciful gold insignia, were paired with gray military trousers inlaid with leather stripes.
The palette was grounded in black with golden highlights ornamenting everything. One satin evening suit glistened like polished bronze.
It was the most dazzling show yet for Dior Homme, and Hedi explained the timing to FW backstage: "I chose to be brilliant because the époque is so sad."
And the collection certainly transcended the darkness of current global tensions, like a ray of golden sunshine.
"Weren't those bracelets beautiful!" exclaimed Karl Lagerfeld, while coyly lifting his arm. "Just look. I've already got one."
But the person who explained it the best was Elton John. "It's only when you see them up close that you can appreciate the beauty of these clothes. Hedi has a passion for detail that I haven't seen in anyone since Gianni Versace."
After the finale, the runway fell again into blackness, and Hedi made his way down, illumined only by the occasional flashes of lightening.
And in those brief moments, you could only vaguely see his silhouette; but his reflection was crystal clear: a brilliant Dior Homme collection with a beauty that stirs the soul.
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