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Dominique Morlotti: Two Colors, One Gender
By: Timothy Hagy
Photos by Javier Mateo
PARIS, July 2, 2002/ FW/ --- Dominique Morlotti's Spring Summer 2003 collection was an
essay in red and black.
The models emerged through a door trimmed in flaming crimson, and then trooped down a short,
black carpeted runway thrown over the fine-slivered parquet floor.
According to the notes placed on each seat, the collection was conceived around a vignette
between a man and his date.
She's late and he can't decide whether to wear red or black.
Running out of time even to shave, he dashes to answer the bell.
After looking him carefully over, she asks, "Can I borrow your clothes?"
And that was unintentionally the real message of the show.
Mr. Morlotti's clothes look better on women than on men.
Paradoxically, the cut is long and full with lots of great ideas.
There were gossamer sleeveless shirts worn with shiny aluminum pants, captivating clear
and red sandals, flowing satin viscose pants, and red lambskin Lycra sleeveless vests.
The interplay of red, black and white never got monotonous, but instead was reworked in
infinite variety.
For all the attempts at finding a contemporary Unisex look, the collection never quite molded
to the male silhouette.
Fortunately, two female models saved the day.
Perhaps the flowing cuts, the voluptuousness of the design, or else the wispy textures were
the reason, or else, Mr. Morlotti just has a better eye for women.
Dominique Morlotti
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