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Dsquared2's Rambo Chic
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
MILAN, Jan 16, 2003 /FWD/ --- School kids are crowding into Milan's museums and churches and Japanese tourists into its boutiques, but for the best performance in town visitors should nab an invite to the Dsquared2 show.
Entitled 24-7 Star, and staged in a mock airport with arrival and departure panels to the sounds of James Bond themes and "Born Free," the show was a full-blown celebration of life, lust and fashion. Or, as the label's founders and joint creative directors Canadian brothers Dean and Dan Caten put it in their fake diary program notes: "Rambo chic."
The models descended onto the catwalk from a fuselage of a private plane, passing by scores of screaming groupies and fans held behind crowd barriers. First to prowl down the steps was a bare-chested rock god in Tommy platforms and an open gold coat, gesturing regally to the crowd, which included London It Girl Lady Victoria Hervey, designer Patrick Cox and a pack of leggy blonde Italian TV VIP babes.
Jeans were embroidered with fiery flames, belt buckles with six-inch silver eagles, and baseball caps with gold 24-7 Star lettering, just like the one New Yorker critic Michael Roberts wore proudly. "I was by to the see the boys a few days ago," he bragged.
For fall/winter 2003 Dean and Dan have one thing uppermost in their minds: whoever wears their clothes is gonna get laid. The girls can go for the guys in the padded bomber jackets in faded denim with sheepskin forearms, the boys for the models in tie-dyed jeans cut so low in the waist that half their backside showed.
But don't get us wrong, there is an art to Dsquared2's madness -- and some impressive cutting. The twins are savvy tailors, as was abundantly clear from the cut and novel placement of seams on their three-quarter redingotes.
The Catens launched their house eight years ago with limited means but their drive, humor and sheer talent has won them a place in the top ranks of today's men's wear. The production deal they signed last year with Diesel ensures that they can afford such extravagant shows.
The Catens basked in the compliments backstage, while beside them stood Diesel owner Renzo Rosso.
"Great show, great clothes!" purred Rosso, the Warren Buffet of nightclub fashion. And a not half bad investment either, Renzo.
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