ES by Sadaharu Hoshino Fall 2007: ‘Flowers Kept Alive’
Paris Pręt-á-Porter (Paris Fashion Week) Fall 2007
By Mari Davis and Miriam Lam
PARIS, Feb 25, 2007/ FW/ --- The ES collection by Sadaharu Hoshino for Fall 2007 is reminiscent of a traditional form of flower arrangement in Japan called Ikebana, which is a Buddhist expression of the beauty of nature that literally translates to: ‘flowers kept alive’.
Hoshino’s fall collection consists of delicately sewn hooded tops, high necklines, Victorian sleeves, somber colors, and doll-like knee length dresses. These styles present an interesting combination of air-like flow and beamlike structured figures.
Ikebana itself is totally mathematical in its foundations wherein the basics are taught by using various angles of 15, 45, 90 and 75 degree carefully placed directions of where the flowers should point and how the branches should be formed. Branches are trimmed and flowers are placed according to set formulae.
Similarly, the ES collection is careful, systematic, and calculated to the point of mathematical precision. One can see this not only in his clothing but also in the details such as the carefully criss-crossed braids on each of his models.
ES designs this season seems to transport ideas and visions of ikebana (consciously or subconsciously) to the 21st century. There is seriousness to his collection combined with innocence and pureness that will work well in Asian markets where traditions hold strong to the straight and narrow path and on sticking to what is fundamentally important.
Meanwhile, a final examination of Hoshino’s work reveals that despite its strengths, this collection lacks flare, expression, passion, and emotion.
In the true essence of Ikebana, this line perfectly exemplifies the concept of “flowers kept alive” vs. “flowers living vibrantly”…
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