PARIS, Feb 28, 2005 --- Showing at the Cirque d’Hiver, Fatima Lopes did a great collection inspired by the elegance of the early 19th Century. The collection has very well tailored looks such as her wrap coatdress. This tailoring is seen throughout the majority of the pieces.

The first looks to really capture the eye’s attention were her black evening gown that shimmers in the night. The leather suit in black with red threads with a diamond shape panel removed from the neck to the breast. This latter look really reveals the designer’s mastery cutting of leather.

Fatima surpassed herself (and many other designers) with her little black dresses. In satin, one of them wraps around the neck and drops just to the knees. Another has pleats and gatherings and is truly sublime.

Once fashion week is over, 3 of Fatima’s will most likely make my list of the top 15 black dresses of the season.

The Portuguese beauty’s grey dress with slanted pin-tucks across the front and large sleeves is stupendous, a true triumph in elegant sex appeal.

Fatima’s work is often misunderstood and greatly under appreciated. She has bold ideas and the technical skills to achieve the impossible. She should really place more attention on her silhouettes such as last dress in grey described above, the black dresses and her work in leather.

When I saw the gorgeous green satin dress with wide-open collar at knee length, I became convinced that the time has come for Ms. Lopes to make the hard decision to return to the official calendar. She should also do so by showing at the Caroussel du Louvre where her work can be appreciated by the full body of the international press.