PARIS, Sep 29, 2007/ FW/ --- The TV studio of a famous French talk show was the perfect setting for the runway of a renewed vision of women by Fatima Lopes this afternoon, as a mixture of disco hits were played in the loudspeakers, while a piano player also gave his live interpretations of the standards on a white acoustic keyboard.

At the very opening of the Paris Pręt-ŕ-Porter, the designer from Madeira (Portugal), who started her house 15 years ago and was showing her 18th collection on the Paris catwalks offered an extremely colourful palette dominated by shocking pink and bright yellow with close to fluorescent teal.

The first five models appeared from underground lifted by a platform that immediately gave the club atmosphere… and the colours exploded in dresses which were tentatively allying shocking pink and sun yellow. Summer should be hot for the strong women wearing Fatima Lopes, and the temperature should rise again as these hemlines are discovered all above the knee, cut in shiny light fabrics that mould the body when the breeze blesses them in this fever!

Fatima Lopes has confirmed that she has operated a U-turn in her design goals. The garments that previously could have been judged by some as too provocative, have gained energy, class and wearability this season. It is also to be noted that there was no red whatsoever in the pieces shown today. The result is more efficient, far less literally carnal and, in many eyes, sexier.

The garments observed close up backstage are all displaying close to perfect finishings “We have our own atelier working exclusively for us, and this helps a lot”, commented the designer herself.

When asked to define the type of women who wear her clothes, Fatima Lopes proclaims: “Strong women, who are proud to show their bodies. It is not a question of beauty as no woman is in my eyes perfect or imperfect. It all comes down to a question of tailoring.”

And it must be said that there was a good measure of tailoring in this merry collection, particularly in some wonderfully executed jackets with a flounced basque, in the work on inlays and omnipresent pleats of good quality.

The accessories might however be among the season’s best sales: two-tone platform stilettos particularly stand out, as do the wide green belts embellished with the designer’s initials in the front.

A set of easy-to-wear black and white evening dresses complete this presentation which was particularly rich for this still relatively small designer’s house who, although distributed only in selected stores in the US (including Sensuel in LA) could well be ready to satisfy a wider American clientele, adding up to her European and Japanese aficionados.

The only reproach one could make was the staging of the runway. Although the decor was original and appealing, although it is understandable that a fashion house this size is happy to show 52 exits, the initial line-up of five models would have done better if it had been duplicated in the following exits. Instead, the audience was forced to endure a look by look examination of the garments. The show lost some of its energy in the process, but still remained very joyful… At the final parade set up like a tableau vivant, some were feeling that the explosion of the disco fever had not built up sufficiently to explode.

This is nevertheless not due to the designer’s courageous work and inspiration which are, certainly more than ever, pertinent for those who want to forget the grim of life.

Fatima Lopes

Fatima Lopes

Fatima Lopes

Fatima Lopes