Gaspard Yurkievich Spring 2004
Paris Pręt-á-Porter Spring 2004
Gaspard Yurkievich: Increasing the Vocabulary
By Contributing Writer
Photos by Javier Mateo
PARIS, Oct 7, 2003/ FW/ --- Gaspard Yurkievitch, whose show last June was very controversial
with his homoerotic men's "show" of clothed pornography featuring every male on male position
imaginable, today increased the fashion vocabulary by volumes.
Invitations, which featured a topless model, plus an opening performance by Roxy Tornado
of the Cray Horse Saloon in Paris, a mise en scčne that could best be described as mix
of semi-modern / semi-erotic dancing (with Ms. Tornado attired in a peek-a-boo triangle
top and feathered leggings) at first led one to believe that this young designer's
Ready-to-Wear show might rival the Las Vegas lap strip dance.
But, to the contrary, Yurkievitch sent out a first rate collection, notable for it's
highly creative and artistic finesse.
Models trouped over a dirty-gray water cushion in stilettos, some negotiating the waves
with more grace than others, but all pros.
Pale champagne-green skirts and slacks were paired with fawn-colored tops, touched with
fringe, and brushed with feathers.
Black cocktail dresses were overlaid with fishnet and worn atop a two-toned aquamarine
metallic bodice, while lime green and aluminum piping melted down black slacks in
geometrical forms. Silver triangles were applied to tops, and gray mesh skirts were
splattered with black and white abstract motifs.
A finale of draping two-tone bluish green blouses shimmered atop skirts and slacks,
while snow white cocktail dresses were layered like puffy clouds.
If the applause from Suzy Menkes, who showed up in the driving rain 50 minutes after
the appointed start time, her traditional bob looking soggy, is any indication, Gaspard
has won over the high powered press, a generous (if less than subtle) sponsor in Watermark
of Paris, and a wide following of Fashionista.
He has the attention, so it's time to move on from four letter words, and master the
sensuous language of nuance.
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