PARIS, Mar 5, 2006/ FW/ --- In what arguably is the most captivating and invigorating mannish clothing for women previewed this season, Gilles Rosier’s refreshing and innovative approach to the genre gained him a lot of fans.

In a predominantly black collection with splashes of white, beige, gold and silver to brighten things up, Rosier gave a nod to the ‘slim’ trend this season sending architecturally structured silhouettes wherein geometric shapes dominated.

The trench coat was proposed in several variations – double-breasted and cut with asymmetrical hemline then cinched loosely at the waist with a necktie belt or suspender-style embedded belt; tuxedo-inspired with double lapels; and single-breasted with white diagonal stitching.

Trousers are pencil-thin. With vein stitching in front it echoes the tuxedo shirt. Sometimes, the waist features two isosceles triangles, again similar to a tuxedo shirt. With a belt that ends in a bowtie, it more than resembles a tuxedo.

The most delicious take of trousers is the hemline finished like shirt cuffs complete with buttons around the ankle! This is one of the several juxtapositions seen. A man’s shirt was designed to be worn ‘backwards’ styled to look like a cowl neckline.

There was one very interesting take on the skirts. Screen-printed in front with the image of a pair of pants, afar it looks like the model is wearing a transparent skirt. The illusion goes farther with the inclusion of slide front pockets.

But, Rosier was not done yet. He then tackled the jackets, mostly done in tuxedo styles but in multiple variants like a long-tail coat embellished with a star on the breast and on the arm. Cardigan sweaters were proposed short embellished with black Swarovski crystals on the shoulders.

Still, the most delightful was how Rosier used the necktie as adornments and also as belts.

There is only one drawback to this collection and that is we have to wait until fall before we can get our hands on them!

Gilles Rosier

Gilles Rosier

Gilles Rosier

Gilles Rosier