Gilles Rosier Spring 2005
Paris Menswear Show Spring 2005
Gilles Rosier: The Living Poets Society
By: Contributing Writer
Photos courtesy of Gilles Rosier
PARIS, Jul 20, 2004/ FW/ --- French designer Gilles Rosier is inspired by all that nature offers in his Spring/Summer 2005 men’s collection. Appropriately titled ”Living Poets Society”, this collection features intelligent, carefree looks for students of literature, who bask in the glory of the early days of spring.
For us men Gilles Rosier plays with male archetypes in this collection. He reworks polos, shirts, dinner jackets and blazers with great ease offering a softer sense of style to men. He also did “college” jackets, chino pants and threw in a jogging outfit for good measure.
From Rosier’s Spring/Summer 2005 closet, young men can bring together traditional pieces for casual dressing in a most nonchalant manner. Filled with asymmetries created by artful press-studs and buttoning techniques, this collection is an exercise in easy comfort and elegance, yet with a skilful dash of a neglected feel to most pieces.
Gentle powder shades and whites are well represented in the collection. Rosier also makes good use of chalk, light beige, aquamarine and tea pink. These colours are wonderfully set in contrasting motion with the old school classics black, navy blue, military beige, bordeaux and khaki.
Washed and ribbed linens and glace cotton gabardine joined forces with openwork ribbed voile, woollen fabrics and denim with blotches of bleach. There are also soft leathers, cotton piques and prints such as baseball stripes, micro jacquard patterns and college stripes.
The military-type decorations and college coats of arms are revolutionized and blend together with the other pieces to create new hybrid looks.
One should pay close attention to Rosier’s revival of suspenders. His are thin like his ties and quite stylish as they add a hint of forgotten elegance. One set of the suspenders even wrap around the back and join in the sides for a new twist for this classic accessory.
His suit with above the ankle trousers and buttons add an element of boyish youth to the collection. I predict that this suit will go over particularly well with the Japanese buyers.
And I particularly like his sleeveless polo shirt with sailor inspirations. That should prove to be a global hit and particularly for men who spend time in the gym. This shirt is designed to put a special spotlight on muscular shoulders, arms and pectorals.
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