PARIS, Oct 13, 2002/ FW/ --- In a smoky basement across the river from the Louvre, Gilles Rosier recreated a 21st century Asian opium/sex den to present his Spring 2003 collection.

In this Paris season where sex and sensuality is the main fare, Gilles Rosier chose to be upfront with it for the setting, but not with the clothes.

Shown as a tableau and not as a runway show, the models stood on stage, holding their names very similar to the 'pillow' partners, the euphemism used for the ladies of the night in Asian sex dens.

Wearing masks to add mystery, the models danced, moved and acted like the underground 'pillow' partners they represent.

But the similarity ended there.

Gilles Rosier sent on stage a stellar collection that could only be described as chic and sensual, without the vulgarity.

Take away the stage and the recreated atmosphere, and you see modern elegant women.

Rosier used luxurious fabrics generously cut and tailored impeccably both for daywear and eveningwear.

The pants hugged the hips and were low-waisted.

They were paired either with short cropped jackets, navel showing blouses and torso-hugging tops.

It was never sexual, just a hint of sensuality - the kind you find in today's modern women.

There was a hint of S&M due to the leather gloves and whips used as accessories. But it was more for the atmosphere and not to embellish the collection.

And that is one of Gilles Rosier triumphs with this show.

When other designers were failing in showing sex and sensuality on the runway, Gilles Rosier did it with aplomb.

By recreating a 'sexually-charged' atmosphere while showing elegant clothes, he tapped into the mainstream without being crude.

And that was a stroke of genius!

Gilles Rosier

Gilles Rosier