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Helmut Lang: The Spark of a New Look
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
New York, Feb 15, 2001/ FWD/ --- There was only one word for it - brilliant.
Just when we were losing faith in the New York season, where endless collections showed
barely a sliver of innovation, along came Helmut Lang with his exquisitely poised, confident
new approach to fashion.
In fashion, even the most eminent designers look over their shoulders and dip into ideas
from rivals. Not Helmut. Lang is one of those real rarities - a genuinely original talent
who is not afraid to break new ground with proportion, silhouette or fabric.
Most of the collection came in black, made almost colorful by fabrics with surface patterns
and finishes. He opened with wide corduroy redingotes, flat-front hipster pants and gauze
dresses artfully gathered up above one knee.
Lang paired his skirts and dresses with sexy, elastic above-the-knee boots that had tantalizing
slits at the ankle. These will be copied in every fashion capital.
For fall, Lang's big ideas all played with transparency. He whipped up wonderful tops, by
looping gauze stoles around the neck and fastening them with a belt. He paired these with
his signature hipsters and long frock coats.
Best of all were a series of layered chiffon and satin dresses for evening, where a hint of
S&M in the bustiers ignited a whole new look that will catch fire.
Despite going into partnership with Prada, Lang hasn't exactly opened the floodgates with
accessories. But this collection did feature a great new black leather bag, somewhat like a
large grenade on a long thin strap. Moreover, Lang continues to tap into Americana for clever
detailing. This season, he toughened up dresses and tops with black leather crime-movie
holsters. Forget about packing a rod - a little lipstick will do fine.
Helmut Lang Fashion
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