NEW YORK, Feb 22, 2002/ FWD/ --- Though his cut and silhouette relied on classic tailoring, Helmut Lang remained true to his subversive self in the fall 2002 collection he presented Thursday in Manhattan.

Lang designs for arty overachievers. His models, like his customers, are successful creative types in a hurry.

Lang's shows barely last five minutes - one-third the length of most of his competitors.

And today's show was no exception, as the catwalkers dashed around the disused Chelsea garage where Helmut has shown for the past few seasons.

The collection opened with fresh takes on Lang's classic redingotes, updated with horizontal satin panels, which worked beautifully on Stella Tennant (and less so on the male model that followed her).

Helmut had plenty of big ideas this season, starting with padded vests, worn under the designer's signature redingotes, whose collars jutted up petal-like.

These were dramatic yet practical, which probably could not be said about another fresh thought: open-toe tights worn with wooden heeled shoes.

The tights were excellent, though probably not suitable for the sort of 30-degree weather New York's been receiving this fashion week.

Not all his ideas worked, especially trousers with stripes that wrapped awkwardly around the legs, or silver Moon Shot pants.

A gold micro-pleated skirt with plastic horizontal ties, however, was cool and convincing, as were a series of collaged, layered tops in silver and beige made of wool and cotton.

They summed up what Lang is all about -- clever tailoring with an edge.

Lang's biggest new approaches were a long series of large weave crochet skirts and tops that will be highly influential.

One of his greatest strengths is that everything bearing his label seems imbued with his own DNA.

You never need to check the label on a garment by Lang; they are all so clearly his.

Which made one passage in the show -- a white top in shaggy sheepskin with missing panels -- such a surprise, as Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquiere had shown a similar look yesterday afternoon.

All told, this was a powerful collection replete with lots of great clothes, albeit one that didn't quite touch the heights we've come to expect from this Austrian master.

But even not quite at his best, he remains ahead of most of his contemporaries in New York -- and still the single most important reason for attending the American season.