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Helmut Lang: Light & Layered
By: Eri Kim
Photos courtesy of Helmut Lang
New York, Oct 9, 2001/ FWD/ --- For Spring 2002 Helmut Lang went for romantic, playful and
a bit rough around the edges. As usual, the color palette was simple: black, white and gray
with the occasional print or red thrown in. Much more complicated was figuring out the design,
shape and number of items worn by the models.
Lang cleverly layered - and layered and layered - see-through tops, bottoms and skirts in silk
chiffon or cotton knits over bodysuits, knickers and over one another, creating a textured yet
flowing look.
While the silhouette of his pants, jackets and coats were narrow as usual, dresses and skirts
hung much looser, softer and leaned more towards an A-line. Breaking up the feather-light
styles with mostly round necklines was an outline of a V-neck sweater in cotton, cashmere or
silk, which were worn separately. Needless to say, the outlines will be a must-have for any
serious Lang devotee next season.
Wing patterns and wing-shaped cutouts were another consistent feature. Tops with winged
cutouts above the breast or flat front pants letting a part of the hip bone peek through
exemplified the laid-back suggestiveness of the collection. And under Lang, even pleated minis
and knit dresses looked contemporary. The master of minimalism also introduced another
original print - a 3-D cellular pattern.
Last but not least, Lang, whose stocking pump became one of the most coveted accessories this
fall, dreamt up another creation for spring. Apart from simple, pointy-toed mules and sandals,
Lang's shoe of the season is a sandal with a silver, moldable leather strap going around the
ankle.
Lang was originally scheduled to show his collection during Paris Fashion Week, but decided
to present the collection to press and buyers using the Internet, CD-ROM, look books as well
as show tapes, as he did when he first staged a webcast back in 1998.
"I will miss all my friends from the international press in Paris, but I am sure that
everybody will understand that I have to be in New York right now; there will be another time
for me in Paris," Lang said at the time when he announced his decision to cancel his Paris
catwalk show.
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