PARIS, Oct 6, 2004/ FW/ --- It was like reading a book by Ernest Hemmingway, watching the Helmut Lang Spring 2005 catwalk show – artistic, understated and lots of little nuggets of treasures.

It’s not about being in a yacht or a cruise ship, nor is it about being at the South of France or the Hamptons. It’s about the artistry of the maritime traditions, when sailors learn how to tie knots properly, and answer the call of the sea.

It’s about the mythical sirens, albeit Helmut Lang turned them into contemporary women who are city denizens, their irresistible charm is not because of their song, but because of their confidence and assured femininity.

Helmut Lang dressed them in modern day cracker jacks, complete with the 10 buttons and the traditional navy blouse, with a difference - the Austrian designer made tuxedos out of them.

And if the navy dress blues were for evening, the navy dress whites became daywear. But don’t think for one moment that its all about the beach and being on a boat.

Oh yes, there are garments meant for the white sandy beaches too. Yet, most important of all, Helmut Lang dressed his ladies for all occasions, from sunrise to sunset, from dusk till dawn.

The nautical knots became sashes, even necklaces at times. They became embellishments and part of the garment, as Helmut Lang twisted and knotted, making them part of his artistry.

This week, a newspaper in Milan reported that Helmut Lang has sold all of his shares of his company to Prada. I hope that this is NOT a sign that he plans to leave the fashion house that bears his name.

I hope he plans to stay on for a very long time, because losing the artistry of Helmut Lang will be very hard to bear, especially after this collection wherein he answered the call of the sea and brought it all to us in its grandeur.

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang