Mar 13, 2002/ FWD/ --- "You're adventurous, you're ambitious, you're ardent," insisted the hoarse whisper over the speakers at the Hermès fall-winter 2002 collection shown Sunday in Paris.

The Hermès girl, as envisaged by the house's women's wear designer Martin Margiela, is all of those, but she most definitely is not a fashion victim.

Margiela, whose own signature collection is one of fashion's most iconoclastic, seems determined to avoid trends in his designs at Hermès, where he concentrates on creating modern classics -- looks so understated they almost whisper, like that voice on the soundtrack.

In a collection devoid of prints and color -- the palette was restricted to black, charcoal gray, baby brown and black again -- Margiela nevertheless managed to create some classy and contemporary clothes.

Standouts included reversible double-faced jackets worn with great black leather Crombie hats, sleeveless herringbone jackets with the Hermès initial, bags in black Evercalf, and some superb shorn mink cardigans.

It's a collection for women who will be respected for their refined taste, never admired for their pizzazz.

And that's why the house of Hermès is more than happy with their designer.

Hermès by Martin Margiela	Hermès by Martin Margiela
Hermès by Martin Margiela	Hermès by Martin Margiela

Hermès by Martin Margiela

Hermès by Martin Margiela

Hermès by Martin Margiela