Hermès by Martin Margiela: Hermès' Enigmatic Elegance
By By Melanie Rickey
(Photos by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Mar 11, 2003/ FWD/ --- Precise, luxurious, enigmatic, understated elegance, these are
the core values Martin Margiela conjured into clothes for the venerable house of Hermès Sunday.
Always a refreshing show for its familiarity, and the grown-up ease of the models who take
on the beatific persona of Botticelli's Venus for their turn around the Rue du Faubourg St
Honore store, this time was no exception.
The show opened with a series of hooded black and tan reversible coats and blousons with a
distinct caped feel to them, a strong theme this week.
These were worn with high-neck sweaters, high-waist double-pleat belted trousers, and understated riding boots.
As this is Hermès, all the clothes were in silk or luxurious cashmere: double-faced or, and
here's a funny thing, the ever subversive Margiela made his cashmere sweaters look like
Shetland wool.
The high-waist trousers in camel or black were the cornerstone of the daytime propositions,
worn with ribbed knits - some slash-necked, some high-necked, others with kimono arms.
But the real stars were the coats, riding boots that had a tiny buckled strap running
around the rim, and a new take on the Cape Cod (Hermès' iconic double-strap watch),
which has now been done with a chunky stretch metallic strap.
A dramatic buttonless belted overcoat was paired with a Muslim-style headscarf on
an Asian model.
Other coats had their inner sleeves sliced open to create a cape effect.
The elegant eveningwear was equally simple.
Tunics, long dresses, and cocktail dresses with slim skirts in black had their
backs sliced open and were secured at the nape of the neck.
Serape knits were worn as sweaters with cigarette pants, a cropped fur bolero was
paired with a white shirt and black trousers.
In all, a very Hermès experience.
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