Hermès: Elegant Assurance
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Click on image to see bigger photo.
One thing you can say about the clothes Martin Margiela designs for Hermès is that they give
whoever wears them a brainy, elegant self-assurance.
What was most different this season was
the mannish tailoring that ran through the collection Margiela sent out in Hermès’ flagship
luxury emporium.
Set to a jazz beat, Martin opened with four burnt black cricket blazers, some of them sleeveless,
with white inlaid piping that would probably have looked as good on a man as on the
carefully-coiffed catwalk models.
His best opening look was a plunging V-neck jacket in navy blue, worn by Ines de la Fressange,
who continues her runway comeback.
Though 50, Ines retains a tomboy’s smile that was perfect for this show.
Margiela has the good fortune to experiment with Hermès’ ridiculously good fabric resources,
demonstrated by the feather light lambskin, silk twill and alabaster cottons on display.
The Hermès woman is not just smart, she’s intrepid.
For foreign assignments, Margiela showed five reporter’s jackets in milk-hued lambskin over
one-pleat pants or beige silk dresses. Never have foreign correspondents looked so well.
Hermès Fashion
Hermès Fashion
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