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Iceberg Leaves Us a Bit Cold
By J. J. Martin
Photos by Gruber-FWD
MILAN, Jan 19, 2003/ FWD/ --- Iceberg promised “Renaissance paintings contaminated by
pop art and knights catapulted into a modern metropolis” for its men’s fall-winter 2003
collection.
The idea of a 16th century knight sporting Warhol fits the Italian label’s penchant for
kitschy boldness, but it seemed like the brash cavalier must have gotten hung up in a
duel back at the castle, because his presence never quite emerged on-stage.
No grave matter, though. Flashing forward several centuries, the knight’s ancestor,
an elegant outdoorsy type now charged with taking care of the winter manor, emerged
just the same.
This is the guy who chops wood in the snow wearing thick wool cargoes slouched into green
rubber Wellingtons while woolly scarves and cable sweaters twist about his torso.
Despite the amber aviators and the scattering of hand-sewn patches, the looks maintained
a very relaxed elegance.
There’s just something stately about a man wearing his chocolate cords tucked into tall
suede boots, some reaching over the knees, while a frock coat, covered with a tattered
appliqué, trails behind.
Iceberg did dabble in the Pop Art era, importing graffiti prints, Basquiat splatterings
and clips of Renaissance scenes to the sides of shirts and sweaters.
But the look stayed subtle and utilitarian, rather than brash.
While the clothes were cute and clean, one had to wonder if this was really the same label
that employs the outrageous David LaChappelle to snap their traffic-stopping advertising
featuring Pamela Anderson in hilarious Jackie-O spoofs.
It was precisely that sort of impactful fashion irony which was noticeably absent
from this show.
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