Issey Miyake by Naoki Takizawa Fall 2006: 'The Whole Is More Than The Sum of Its Parts'
Paris Pręt-á-Porter Fall 2006
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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PARIS, Feb 28, 2006/ FW/ --- The venue was intriguing; it was a construction site, the unfinished Quai Branly Museum designed by architect Jean Nouvel that will be opened to the public on June 23, 2006. And once you open the press notes, a poster sized artwork of a woman with tattoos, the mystery unfolds right on your very eyes.
The collection was entitled ‘In Disguise’ and Naoki Takizawa wrote ‘I imagined a wild untamed woman, who proudly swaggers around the city in her smart dress. Underneath this disguise lies another layer – her tattooed body. The outer layer conceals her true color and her inner body rhythm. She is the muse for my collection.’
Everything started to make sense. The Quai Branly Museum (which by the way, Naoki Takizawa has created two giant curtains that will dress the place when it opens) is dedicated to the Arts and Civilization of Africa, Asia, South Sea Islands and the Americas provided the perfect allegory for the Issey Miyake woman for Fall 2006 who is a citizen of the world and multi-ethnic in more ways than one. And most importantly, it is also a reflection of the brand, which is sold all over the world and has freestanding stores in Asia, America and Europe.
Still, the venue whether it is allegoric or not, the collection, even if the show was held in another place will stand on its own. The opening exit alone is mesmerizing - molded leather shaped like body armor.
Hidden underneath the multiple variants of trench coats and capes, and worn with slim fitting denim pants, the ensemble summed up the theme of the collection while emphasizing the art of Naoki Takizawa.
Created with swirls and whorls like a tattoo, the leather breastplate represented the ‘muse’ that Naoki Takizawa spoke of in the press notes. The trench coats that were made of multi-processed leather that sometimes came lined with fur exemplify the success in fabric treatment and experimentation of the designer. While the denim that is indigo coated and rubbed, creating a light and shade effect and also presented as a jacquard with ivy woven pattern is artistry with a high-tech connotation.
Even with 65 exits previewed, it was a tight collection, where every single piece, including the shoes and bags fall within the realm of a ‘woman with a dual nature constantly thinking and dreaming of adventure with her playful and curious mind’ as said in the press notes.
She is both an uptown and downtown girl rolled into one; an intellectual in a young woman’s body.
That’s why she is at ease wearing flat shoes and boxing boots with an ethnic inspired gown created with colorful mountaineering cords that gave the total effect of an African queen. She is also comfortable in cargo style leather pants while carrying a bamboo bag done in traditional Japanese weaving techniques. And as kids say nowadays, ‘she can strut her stuff’ in relaxed fitting slender trousers and fur lined pink jacket.
Spellbinding is barely adequate as an adjective to describe this collection. Because even if all the innovations that were done were all mentioned, it still does not equate to the artistry and craftsmanship that were used to create each piece.
This is a good time to borrow from Aristotle, ‘the whole is more than the sum of its parts.’
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