Bigger than life cutouts of A-POC Inside apparel, a brand Fujiwara and Miyake conceived and collaborated on 1998 and has since then evolved, greeted the guests as they entered. With four big screens showing an A-POC inside animation that is reminiscent of first generation video games but very cutting edge in terms of technology, an air of expectancy that a new design era has arrived at Issey Miyake was added.

With Fujiwara taking the creative helm at the maison, A-POC inside will be incorporated into the Issey Miyake labels keeping alive and following the ‘A Piece of Cloth’ concept that has been Miyake’s design philosophy since he started the house.

One show, three labels – Issey Miyake Women, Issey Miyake Men and Fête, for the first time ever, all three are being shown on the same catwalk, conceived and created by Fujiwara for his debut collection.

The catwalk looked a bit industrial with the pavement bare and huge streamers going from the ceiling to the floor then up again, set the stage. It was young and hip, a new plaza that Fujiwara termed ‘rondo’, which he defined as ‘the gathering of friends, nature, music and the elements to come together as one.’

So when ‘Galaxy’, the first of the 13 groupings in the collection turned out to be a denim group featuring a series of image effect that are achieved through weaving as opposed to printing and dyeing, the audience was not surprised.

And then there were a lot of smiles from the audience when the ‘Bright Pleats’ and ‘Leaves’ featuring micro accordion pleats, an element very familiar to Issey Miyake fans hit the runway. Proposed in bold bright colors, Bright Pleats featured double layer of pleated iridescent organdie while Leaves was presented as layers of ultrasonically cut pleated taffeta, the necks and sleeves of tunics and dresses show that looked like sprays ‘tea leaves’.

More of the micro accordion pleats were shown with ‘Bounce Pleats’ and ‘Square Pleats’ with the first one made up of plain round pleated forms became 3-D collars and the latter, are 3-D geometric shapes adorning dresses and skirts. Menswear was concentrated on the ‘Postman’ that was inspired by the traditional mail carrier’s uniform.

Still, it was ‘Celebration’ that brought down the house. Three models came out hiding behind a big banner, ‘a single piece of cloth’ that represented the three collections on the catwalk. – Issey Miyake Women’s, Issey Miyake Men and Fête.

Then, right in front of the audience, the models snuggled inside the banner. A loud ripping sound was heard and the banner became three pieces of clothing – a pleated green Fête polyester top, red cotton men’s shirts and a woman’s blue cotton tunic.

Immediately, there was a resounding applause and shouts of Bravo was also heard.

A-POC knits turned out to be made of standard bright knit jersey while the ‘Light Tux’ and the ‘Aurora’ featured gradating of colors followed it. Pleats and flats and spheres, Fujiwara played on shapes, form and colors.

And finally, ‘Horoscope’, a rich reversible tapestry in circular cuts that wrap the body featuring the zodiacs closed the show.

A triumphant debut, the only missing was the debutante because although they waited for him to come out Fujiwara did not take his bow. Oh well, there will be a next time and Paris can give its applause to its newest star.

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara