Issey Miyake by Naoki Takizawa Menswear Spring 2007: Right On Track!
Paris Menswear Show Spring 2007
By Mari Davis
Photos by FW
More photos --->> | 1 | 2
PARIS, Jun 30, 2006/ FW/ --- It was a sports team’s dug out, a hole made at the end of the runway where the models came out. Naoki Takizawa was inspired by ‘the images connected to the sports scene.’
With soccer fever running high in Europe right now, you almost expect David Beckham to come out. Thank goodness, HE DID NOT!
Naoki Takizawa did not go for the obvious. He went for subtlety. It was about sports in general enthused by ‘the red clay of a stadium floor, the numbers on a scoreboard, the white of a chalk line the green.
Hence, the opening look is a simple statement, yet it proclaimed what the collection was all about. A lone model wearing a white t-shirt with the word ‘TRACK’ embossed in green paired with a beige carpenter pants. A green belt and a white sneaker with green shoelaces finished the look.
Then, the traditional sports icons became part of the design, more of an element than the focal point – a diagonal line across the chest, logo at the back of a varsity jacket in green & white, work out pants and jackets that are quilted, the umpire uniform done in green and white instead of black and white while the golf shorts became street shorts.
The numbers became embellishments on trousers that have a relaxed fit and cut with low crouches. They were also seen on shirts and hoodies. It was a novel treatment for a clothing genre that revolves around team member’s numbers.
As always with a Naoki Takizawa collection, it is in the fabric treatment and details where the innovations lie.
Leather was shaved before dying, making it thinner and smoother to give it a supple volume. Finished with the press treatment, the leather had a glazed look.
Playing on texture, Takizawa subjected the polyester satin fabric to a condensation process and quilting, resulting to a slightly wrinkled look.
He kept the fabric weight light and functional. It’s the sports scene after all, wherein clothes get more than their fair share of wear and tear.
|