PARIS, Oct 2, 2007 / FW / --- For his second season at the helm of the house of Issey Miyake, Dai Fujiwara has investigated the wind, in all the dimensions of the word. Not only has he partnered with James Dyson*, the inventor of the Dyson technology, for the impressive and highly technological set to present his collection, the Japanese designer has also blown on the runway of Paris Fashion Week a wind of freshness, bringing a propos poetry to the concern with global warming and making a statement of hope: fashion has an optimistic vision of the future.

A huge yellow accordion-like tube seemed to blow on the catwalk the models one by one, to present a collection that was revisiting with lustre the trademarks of Issey Miyake. Dresses, skirts and jackets of evening pleats, consisting only of inlays of exaggerated herringbones, had a kind of sophisticated packaging feel, although the sculpted garments seemed light as feathers. Various declinations of the house’s famous pleats also serve well the season’s trends for theatre curtain skirts, interpreted here in an amazing trampoline version, where the hemline moves up and down as the model walks down the runway.

Due to the heat under the tent everyone attending the show was wondering if at last, the organizers had thought of some kind of air-conditioning watching the five huge tubes that had been set up above our heads on each side. All of a sudden, they started to unfold on their railings, to move forward as three models took the pause at the top of the catwalk, obviously presenting the season’s A-Poc line. As the models moved forward, they were followed by the yellow tubes to blow a cyclonic wind over their silhouettes. Is it with a vision of a global warming apocalypse that Dai Fujiwara has designed these light coats complete with hats that could easily transform into shelters in the tempest with their many zippers, or is it not rather a successful attempt to integrate the aesthetics of 21st century technology into the shape of the garments. It seems to be the case, not only with the integration of some dismantled components of the Dyson DC 20, but also with unique tubular shapes reminiscent of the hose of the cleaner’s device.

Yet the colour of the looks first grey and pink, turning then to black, like the darkest, thunderous clouds seemed to indicate that the statement was also more serious. Later a tee-shirt with “carbon neutral” inscription seemed to address the audience saying: you have been warned, but if you haven’t listened, Issey Miyake has the right gear for you.

Although this highly cyclonic second part was effective and dramatic, it was also pertinent and poetic, revealing a vision of modernity that was unexpected and beautiful, but the best was yet to come.

As the yellow side tubes were beginning to dance like the dragons used in the Chinese New Year celebrations, the third part of the show unfolded to reveal a still more hopeful vision of post-apocalyptic days when elegance, gaiety and refinement will be back. An embroidery of Chinese inspiration representing a woman with a peony on pleated silk was certainly a standout in the entire collection, like many a piece in this last part full of future delicacy.

In short, Dai Fujiwara has managed to give a powerful reinterpretation of the house of Issey Miyake, the designer’s final bow taken with James Dyson, being the epitomization of his interest in integrating the aesthetics of technology in his work to build a new vision of fashion for today and tomorrow.

* More details about their collaboration can be found on www.isseymiyake.dyson.com

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara

Issey Miyake by Dai Fujiwara