Gaultier's Triumph
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
Paris, Jan 22, 2002/ FWD/ --- Just when everyone was wondering who might take on the mantle
of couture leader with the retirement of Yves Saint Laurent, along came Jean-Paul Gaultier
who, with a stunning collection, put one hand on the crown.
The vibe Sunday was a little revolutionary at Gaultier’s show, which inaugurated his huge
new headquarters, a rambling neo-classical townhouse built in 1910 as the Maison des
Proletarians.
Clearly delighted with his purchase, Gaultier celebrated his fabulous new digs with a
remarkable collection.
From the first to the last of the 63 outfits, Jean-Paul created a series of brilliant
clothes in terms of cut, silhouette, innovation, color and sense of humor.
"I was thinking of Paris and of Amelie Poulin. You’ve seen the movie, right? Of Pigalle and
bars and the ladies, and of a certain sort of Paris," Jean Paul told FWD.
Inspired by the theme of “Amelie,” and her bucolic quest for happiness by helping others,
hairstylist Odile Gilbert gave the models intricate gamine curls, and makeup master Stephane
Marais smoothed on a matinee idol finish.
PETA protestors again jumped on the runway as the show began, like at Versace, and were again
quickly hustled away.
After the drama, calm was restored by a brilliant cast of generally continental models like
Ines de la Fressange and Carla Bruni, who stepped out with a lace shopping cart with roses a
la Amelie.
With her pretty daughter Nina watching, Ines exited with Eton tails in navy gabardine, paired
with long men’s white shirt that was a brilliant exercise in cut and line.
The lovely Christine Bergstrom of Roxy music video fame made an appearance in a red feathered
coat like some Bird of Paradise.
One of Jean-Paul’s cleverest ideas was using ties, many with his logo, to make skirts and
dresses for women and stunning jackets for men.
His accessories, the bulky silver and red plastic bracelets in particular, will be aped by
many.
Moreover, Jean-Paul has an art of taking an old garment like a mackintosh and remaking it
anew, this season as a décolleté trench with a huge collar.
Madonna led a hoard of fans downstairs post-show to a huge backstage basement.
The space was formerly a Moorish-themed club for German tourists and later a kickboxing
center, at which point Gaultier bought it for a rumored $12 million.
"We’re going to have a lot of fun here," beamed Gaultier, who has leased out the space for
three months to the socialist leader for his spring presidential campaign, before building
work begins.
Five years ago in January 1997, Gaultier debuted his "virtual" couture house in a temporary
exhibition space, where he had sketched the woodwork of a real salon onto screens.
Today, he used similar screens to soften the giant first-floor salon of his real house -
renovation of the building will take up to two years.
After years as a rebel, today was a time of acclaim for Jean-Paul.
Gywneth was there in one section, and in the next sat the new socialist mayor of Paris,
Bertrand Delanoe, beside France’s top talk show host Thierry Ardisson.
As the ranks of stars, T.V. crews, editors, stylists, models, socialites and fans congratulated
Gaultier over glasses of champagne, one could not help feeling this was more than just a
fashion moment – more like a coronation.
Jean Paul Gaultier
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