Jean-Paul Gaultier: Baby Dolls
By Timothy Hagy
(Photos by Reuters)
PARIS, Mar 8, 2003/ FW/ --- Of all the Paris designers, Jean-Paul Gaultier can be counted on to send a message that may not be as straightforward as imagined.
Today's triumphant show really only made sense by the finale, when the polish of all the individual pieces in a long line brought the theme to the surface.
On a glass runway suspended over an army of baby dolls, the show unfolded to the strains of the song "good vibrations", before taking a turn into Celtic tunes.
Gaultier explained to reporters before the show that "In the current atmosphere, it's a good thing to rediscover a part of childhood." Donald Potard, CEO of JPG went further in pointing out that the army below the runway would never go to Iraq.
From the first red and black piece that seemed to represent the outfit of a little girl playing with her dolls, to the cut off capes fringed with white fur, the air soon became tinged with an erotic undercurrent.
One short black ruffled skirt, with a scalloped cut was trimmed in apricot and paired with a liquorice leather bolero. An impressive pair of tops shimmered in tangerine and strawberry. From ruffled dresses, to opulent full-length minks flowing in splendor, the show soon began to take on heat.
The ire of PETA boiled over twice at the sight of the unctuous fur pieces, and each time security quickly subdued the offending demonstrator by netting them in mink.
The second outburst was within inches of Jean-Paul Gaultier during his victory lap, and once again raises the issue of security, already ratcheted up to code orange. Short of strip-searching guests or calling in the French army, there seems little way to completely eliminate such impolite distraction.
Insurrections aside, the show went off smoothly.
The Colors for Fall / Winter 2003 range from mustard yellow, grays, chocolate, tweed and pinstripes, with sudden bursts of watermelon red accentuating boots, skirts and tops.
The use of hoods and cagoles, together with the ruffled dresses, brought to mind a modern day Little Red Riding Hood whose erotic dreams probably turned her into a veritable wolf at night.
Jean-Paul Gaultier is a master at subtle sensuous undertones, and that is why each one of his collections, season after season, percolates with eroticism.
Today's show was another winner to add to a string of successes ‹ and oh baby doll: Jean-Paul Gaultier is on a roll!
|
