Jean-Paul Gaultier: New Constellations
By Timothy Hagy
(Photos by Reuters)
PARIS, July 10, 2003/ FW/ --- When Jean-Paul Gaultier dressed Nicole Kidman in couture for Oscar night last March, he cemented his reputation as designer to the stars. He's always had a galaxy of admirers in Hollywood, but it seems he also is being discovered by new constellations of ladies, the ones that arrive in Paris just after the last Fourth of July fireworks have died out to make the rounds of the fall shows.
The alleged biggest spender of all is Suzanne Saperstein from California, who was seated front row on Wednesday night at the Gaultier show in a sparkling white and gold swirled evening gown. She was trailed by her daughter, a young Jennifer Anniston look alike, and her mellow hubby, who just happens to be a billionaire.
"Every one of the shows is fantastic, and they all have something I want," Mrs. Saperstein said. "You have to decide what works best for your body, and for your way of living." Then, she continued "I'm so fortunate to have a husband who comes and sits with me, these shows can be quite testy with the heat and all."
Mrs. Saperstein is fortunate as well that Mr. Saperstein so generously signs the checks, because her shopping cart was probably filled to the brim with the sleek elegance of this Gaultier collection.
Things, however, did not begin without incident. As the temperature inside the École des Beaux Arts heading for the century mark, a technical delay (an unfinished dress) put the start time on indefinite hold. The fans clicked, the spotlights blared down, and a dog stretched out front row beneath his master's feet and snored. After the first hour, the photographers got cranky. Then Suzy's bob began to wilt, Glenda's hair frizzed, Anna slouched, Carine looked dazed, a socialite sitting behind announced that she was canceling an appearance at the Boucheron party and going straight to dinner at the Ritz, and an usher, who had been doing sentry duty, broke out in a hot sweat.
But this reporter, who had the good fortune to be testing out the new Gaultier men's cosmetic line, remained cool and dry. Not a streak, not a stain, not even a bead of perspiration.
The show finally began with a delay of 1 hour and 15 minutes to a soundtrack of 20s band music. Inspired by the morphing designs of Dutch stylist Jurgen Bey, the collection began with a single peaked lapel gabardine suit molded to become a white body wrap.
After a set of cool pinstripes, a hot stole of crocodile doubled with crêpe and stitched with black fox sensuously fell in wafts.
Elsewhere, a coyote stole was interlaced with black satin and studded with bronze nails.
In a witty turn, a tromp l'oeil dress foaming with fox and centered with a medieval looking leather corset detached both top and bottom to reveal a delicate lace negligée skirt.
There were any number of dresses fringed with crystal and sprinkled with sequins. A shimmering liquorice-colored gown was veiled with gossamer taffeta, but Jean-Paul headed directly for the red carpet with number 41, a veritable constellation of crystal and silver twinkling in an embroidery encrusted on dusty sterling mousseline.
The transparent wedding dress wrapped delicately to form a see through cocoon of diaphanous webs.
For the finale, models returned to the catwalk attired in the bodysuits pulled from beneath the original dresses, one with the circulatory system outlined in blood-red sequin. The theme finally became clear. Couture was now being pushed to a new constellation, morphing clothing into skin, body armor for an uncertain and dangerous age.
The intricate shoeware designed by Christian Louboutin proved more aesthetic than practical, as at least three models were forced to remove stilettos rather than get tripped up in chiffon. Even Jean-Paul Gaultier threw off his own sandal running barefoot down the catwalk.
By the time the show ended, and the guests filtered into the gathering evening, a young man standing outside in the courtyard dressed in one of the Gaultier skirts summed it up best, "Marvelous. Simply marvelous!"
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