Gaultier: Poised to Take the Throne
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
PARIS, Jan 26, 2002/ FWD/ --- In Paris they are calling Jean-Paul Gaultier the “ritier presum,”
the supposed heir of the great French fashion tradition, now that Yves Saint Laurent has quit
the scene.
On Saturday, with a formidably clever and dashingly androgynous men’s collection, Gaultier lent
vigor to that claim.
"I was inspired by great women who wear men’s clothes. Women often wear men’s clothes far better
than men do. In effect, I’m saying ‘merci’ to women," Gaultier told FWD backstage in his huge
mansion and former Atelier des Proletarians that is his new headquarters.
Katharine Hepburn, Annie Lennox, Georges Sand and above all, Marlene Dietrich and Grace Jones
inspired this fall-winter 2002 collection.
Gaultier opened with a pack of Graces with her oval shades, razor cut hair and eyebrow Band-Aid,
as the male models in high heels hit the runway in some great tailoring with a twist.
Gaultier suggested a new bag, cut like an airplane life jacket, except with pockets.
But the show’s star was Marlene Dietrich, all of whose male interpreters smoked cigarettes.
Opening with the star in leather Eisenhower jacket with khaki pants, when she sang for the troops,
and finishing with her Blue Angel tails and top hat, the look was witty and recalled the way
that Saint Laurent had broken down barriers about women wearing men’s clothes.
Except Gaultier was moving in the opposite direction. The designer borrowed an idea from his
couture collection -- over-tight five-button jackets that rumpled up the waist artfully.
But generally the collection had a heroic mood and silhouette, with broad shoulders, nipped waist
and narrow leg.
Lennox got to wear leather jumpsuits, Sand a superb sleek coat and Hepburn a wonderful pewter
taffeta suit that any man would be delighted to have in his wardrobe.
But while the clothes were definitely masculine, the details were all feminine -- high-heels,
makeup, hair and walk -- in a brilliant exercise in classy cross-dressing.
"Jean-Paul’s men’s show gets stronger and stronger. In among all the sequins and high heels
there is some great tailored men’s wear. More men should wear his clothes," Bloomingdale’s
legendary fashion director Kal Ruttenstein told FWD.
"Gaultier is one of the great designers, and he’s been doing this since the ‘70s. He’s been able
to create great women’s ready-to-wear and then do haute couture and also make great men’s
collections. Jean-Paul is now in the position now where he can assume the leadership in couture.”
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