PARIS, Jul 1, 2002/ FW/ --- A huge crowd packed an ancient theatre in the Beaubourg section of Paris for the Summer 2003 collection by Jean Paul Gaultier.

Even the balconies were crammed to overflowing, as the house made the gracious offer of admitting as many fans as possible, even those without an official invitation.

And the enthusiastic followers of Gaultier were treated to a fantastic afternoon, jammed full of energy.

As the show unfolded in four phases, a memory of a summer in the roaring 90s on a harbor side terrace in Provincetown came to mind.

Two men in their early thirties, to whom the expression 'jaded queen' could aptly be applied, were sipping Margaritas.

One said to the other, "We've done Key West, P-Town and West Hollywood, so there's nothing left but Europe."

And it would sure have been great if those two could have been at the Gaultier show, because it would have put a jolt of excitement back into their being.

A runway was constructed with a carpet of black, white and red stripes, and it ran the entire length of the space, underneath an overpass and all the way to the press pit.

Richard Buckley, editor of Vogues Hommes, and Kal Ruttenstein of Bloomingdales occupied prominent front row seats along the way.

As the show began to the lyrics of Je suis un homme, out came frizzy haired models in super cool white suits, wild hats, bell bottom pants with dangling chains that would have looked at home in a piercing salon.

The footwear of choice was white sandals.

The effect, though muted for Gaultier, was still striking as all get out.

The music suddenly changed to "the love we shared seemed to go nowhere", and with it came the androgynous look that the crowd had been awaiting.

Applause erupted as long black-haired models with red eye paint came down the runway wearing kilt-like skirts, kilt-like shorts, and then outright skirts, worn over the top of gauzy tights in pastel colors of rose and pale champagne.

Then there were some rather colorful halter-tops, worn by models of uncertain gender, but with breasts.

Next were some pealed down jeans worn with multi-colored silk shirts, scarves dangling with chains, as well as other accessories, including a sequined belt reading congratulations.

For evening there was a satin tuxedo with more chains, as well as a super tight suit, which resembled a court jester, blazing in a collage of red and orange.

For the finale, Jean Paul Gaultier came down the aisle with his models, all to roaring applause.

He was dressed in black leather pants, a T-shirt emblazoned in the effigy of a nude woman, and reading Marilyn Mason Club on the back.

For all the androgyny, the overt sexuality, and the sheer heat, the show really got lost between straight and gay, and came out being what it was at heart, absolutely sizzling!

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Jean-Paul Gaultier