Jean-Paul Gaultier: The Evolution of Man
By Timothy Hagy
(Photo by IndigitalTV)
PARIS, Jun 29, 2003/ FW/ --- The irony could not be more striking. Last Thursday the US
Supreme Court invalidated all 19th century sodomy laws still on the books in several
of the fifty states.
Either before, or shortly thereafter, the earthly existence of segregationist
Senator Strom Thurmond ended.
Then last Friday, Jun 27, program notes reading "Erase Your Prejudices" accompanied Jean-Paul Gaultier's exotic men's collection for Summer 2004.
The world of today is a fast changing place, where men are quickly gaining rights.
From a fashion point of view, it is increasingly harder to tell gay from straight, as
a whole new crop of style-conscious heterosexual urban men (often labeled metrosexuals)
are coming out of the closet.
So it was perfect timing for Gaultier to present one of his lightest, and most gender-bending
men's collections ever.
The setting was the Ecole des Beaux Arts, where a beige, transparent mesh divider allowed
glimpses of vanity mirrors backstage as models were being made up.
A long, apricot-colored runway flowed the length of the courtyard.
Before the show began, Suzy Menkes sat front row reflecting "Jean-Paul is one of the
nicest people you could ever meet. He has not an unkind word to say about anyone or anything."
His kindness may not be universally recognized, but his talent most certainly is.
When he dressed Nicole Kidman in couture to receive her Oscar last March, his ascent
to the pinnacle of the fashion world was complete.
So perhaps Gaultier can afford to be daring by some people's standards.
His fast-paced show featured any number of progressive pieces.
From denim skirt-aprons, to skirts worn over pinstripe trousers or mocha glazed leather pants,
the look was provocative.
The soundtrack blared out the lyrics "I am beautiful: words can't bring me down", and super
beefy models trouped down the catwalk in back-less overalls, rustling caramel silk knee
britches, and even a long dress sprinkled with pink polka dots and worn with a vest.
Super Gaultier model Samuel Riva could not have looked more splendid in a white linen suit
tied up with a silk handkerchief, while chiseled Black models donned chocolate bikinis paired
with leather trenches.
For evening, cocoa silk suits and tuxedoes in black or white with lapels inlaid in ebony
and mother of pearl medallions glistened.
Not surprisingly, the House of Gaultier is launching a line of men's cosmetics aimed at
that growing market of indulging men whose attention to personal care is starting to eclipse
that of women.
After the show, a private party was held on the terrace, where sprays of white tea roses
cascaded above tables spread with canapés of raw tuna and foie gras.
Cold champagne flowed, while hot young men mingled with the ladies.
Carine Roitfeld, Suzy Menkes and Richard Buckley were among the high-powered fashion
editors greeting Jean-Paul.
A veritable playboy mansion was reconstructed: Bunnies carrying trays laden with samples
of the new men's cosmetic line (lip gloss, powder, nail polish, eye shadow and skin cream)
vied for attention from the buffest of buff models reclining in alcoves, while luxuriating
in facials, and manicures.
Jean-Paul, who himself looked freshly platinum, and healthily ruddy told FW "It's great to
eliminate prejudice, especially since even men can now wear makeup."
Men are fast evolving - and thank heavens for that!
|
