Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

There was finally a real frisson of excitement before a show in London this season, as the fashion pack gathered for Thursday’s catwalk presentation of Julien Macdonald, the Givenchy couturier and Wales’s answer to Donatella Versace.

Due to show cancellations and the departure of so many leading British designers to show in Paris, Macdonald’s show was unquestionably the hottest ticket in town. And following the critical buffeting Julien suffered, tonight’s show was also something of a test for the designer’s credibility.

The show opened with the theme of "Close Encounters of a Third Kind," and the models swept out under shiny mirrored balls. The first problem with the collection was that nearly all the opening daywear looked more suitable for fall, even though this is the Spring/Summer 2002 season.

The other big surprise was the absence of knits. Julien justly earned a huge reputation by fashioning some remarkable sweaters bearing his own label and those of Chanel. But now that he’s a couturier, he has turned his back on his artisan origins and insists on sending out pants, bolero jackets and tuxedo suits that aped the work of Yves Saint Laurent and other French masters.

There was also a bevy of real clunkers like the floral, just-off-the-shoulder satin blouses with parachute-size sleeves. And even allowing for the necessary runway eccentricities needed to excite jaded critics, what woman would ever want to walk out the front door wearing satin hot pants, a cavewoman’s woolen tank top, topped off with a patent leather telegraph boy’s cap?

There were some incredible high belts, about as wide as your average car tire – and some wonderful sheer lace looks. Macdonald also was more sure-footed for evening, finishing with some happily erotic slip dresses and slinky asymmetrical columns that will work brilliantly on magazine covers.

Overall, however, this collection didn’t work. Even that old ruse of playing screaming fans on the soundtrack couldn’t hide the tepid applause from the front-row.

Moreover, English insularity never ceases to surprise. In a season when spotting a foreign buyer is literally like looking for a needle in a haystack, I spotted several major boutique owners seated in the back row as obscure buddies of the designer preened up front.

Sadly, it is hard to criticize a designer who leaves an apple in a goody bag on everyone’s seat, along with a black T-shirt with the legend in glitter, "There’s nothing quite like a Macdonald." But duty calls.

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002

Julien Macdonald Spring 2002