Lagerfeld Gallery Fall 2001: Back to the '60s Future
Paris Pręt-á-Porter Fall 2001
Photos by FW
PARIS, Mar 16, 2001/ --- Though we're some 15 months into the new millennium,
Lagerfeld Gallery has harked back to '60s futurism in the three collections he presented in Europe.
Karl built the entire Fendi collection (shown in Milan on March 4) around Courreges and Cardin
looks.
Yesterday he stirred '60s influences like space-age boots into Chanel, and on Friday his
"Lagerfeld gallery" collection was out of this world.
Lagerfeld did give retro futurism a fresh twist using new fabrics and mixing them with wide
'80s shoulders and a fair amount of layering.
Black leather straps, wristbands and buckles made things a little more risqué.
For some reason he also kept putting dresses and pleated skirts over leather trousers.
This
worked fine in a violet silk ruched dress, but seemed impractical and heavy most of the time.
The positivism of the '60s was evident in the wide patent leather belts, bold checks and Carnaby
Street hats.
However the happy exuberance of this period did not emerge in the dark clothes and
austere silhouette.
The palette was almost exclusively red and black, which theatrically worked
as the show was staged in the almost entirely red and black Moulin Rouge.
But eventually the duet became repetitive.
Lagerfeld gallery is financed by the designer himself, and Karl can be forgiven for indulging
himself a little with this collection which sells in its eponymously named stores in Paris and
Monaco, plus a few retailers in China and Russia.
However, since its recent relaunch Lagerfeld's
signature collection has not yet lived up to its great reputation.
A decade ago, Lagerfeld's subtly-cut collections were often the best in Paris, but not today.
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