Kenzo's Military Tactic
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Paris, Jan 25, 2002/ FWD/ --- There was a certain irony about the setting, and scene, at the
presentation of the clever, coherent and military-influenced Kenzo men's fall-winter 2002
collection, one of the strongest in some time from the Paris-based label.
Guests arriving at the show, held in a great unused space underneath the Petit Palais, were
greeted by banners and chanting from several scores of garment workers from a manufacturing plant
in Lille, protesting Kenzo's decision to move their production elsewhere.
"Whatever you do, Monsieur, promise us that you'll write about us," pleaded a union activist
leading the demonstration. We just did.
The manifestation took place practically in the shadow of a huge statute to British World War II
leader Winston Churchill, posing in a great coat, before the inscribed quotation, "We will never
surrender."
Inside, Kenzo's Danish designer Roy Krejberg opened with a selection of finely cut topcoats that
would flatter a lot of shapes, with a hint of barracks due to the regimental belts and corporal's
caps with leather trim.
The designer paired many of his looks with combat-style boots with zips and laces that,
one suspects, will do well at retail.
This season Roy had plenty of options for his customer, like jackets that varied from
high-waisted, three-button examples, to one-button jackets with long lapels or artfully rumpled
woolen two-pieces.
His use of inside-out jackets -- a recurring theme this season -- was subtle, and his use of
fabrics that included both chalk-stripes and pinstripes made for some special clothes.
There were also some wonderful astrakhan coats and scarves, but for once in Paris this month,
PETA was nowhere to be seen.
Kenzo has always been an excellent house for anyone searching for hip looks in leather.
Standouts included a wonderfully glazed tan trench and an asymmetrical calfskin topcoat.
In short, the sort of look no gent could ever imagine relinquishing.
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