Kenzo by Roy Krejberg: Haiku
By Timothy Hagy
(Photo by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Jan 25, 2003/ FW/ --- Kenzo Homme elected to show the Fall/Winter 2003-04 collection
by presentation rather than to stage a catwalk.
There is, of course, an air of uncertainty hanging over the House with the departure of
Danish designer Roy Krejberg, whose final contribution was on display this afternoon.
A graceful table was spread with confections that resembled the Oriental/Occidental mélange
of the label.
From delicate chocolate mousse presented in square Japanese dishes to crystallized rose
petals carefully folded, the artistic presentation of the food matched the refinement
of Krejberg's elegant finale.
It all began to resemble Haiku, a Japanese form of poetry that was popular in the 70s.
A creative writing teacher once explained it to me: "Just imagine a pebble that you drop on
a still pond, then watch the circles on the surface spread outward."
With very simple beginnings you soon have a rich effect.
Scarves will be a big hit in this collection, knitted with a pouch and then forming a long
train.
Elsewhere, black wool petals were strung together to form a crêpe-like fringe.
Overcoats began as a simple kimono, and then were imprinted with Japanese, Chinese and
Korean coat of arms to give a polished finish.
One especially exquisite example fell to below ankle length and was offset by double-breasted
tiny buttons.
For evening, a tuxedo with peaked lapels was inset with strips of black satin, an effect
that was mirrored on the sleeves.
Aged leather parkas erupted with silvery fur.
The color range was grounded in black and gray, then spread to plum, goldenrod, and absinthe.
The collection made for a lovely farewell by Roy Krejberg, and the poetry of it all still l
ingers:
Sweet cherry blossoms
Hanging heavy on a gnarled tree
Float free.
Kenzo by Roy Krejberg
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