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Kenzo by Roy Krejberg: The Poetry of Kenzo
By: Timothy Hagy
Photos by Javier Mateo
PARIS, Jul 1, 2002/ FW/ --- There was an understated elegance to Roy Kreijberg's summertime collection for Kenzo, which in quiet tones unfolded to a large crowd.
The show took place in the north wing of the Louvre, in an upper room chiseled from
cream-colored marble.
Long benches covered in unbleached linen ran the length of the walls, and the mellow effect
contributed to a coolness that contrasted with the warmth of the sunny afternoon.
To the beat of technomusic, the teenage models came up a stairway at the east end and then
down a long runway at a leisurely pace.
There was certainly a freshness and youthfulness in the look, as well as a delicateness
stamped on their features.
Cotton, linen, wool and silk fabrics were painted in white, off-white, slate, beige and indigo.
Eventually some brighter colors appeared in the form of turquoise, faded plum, and some
shimmering saffron.
The look was relaxed, but with a casual elegance that seemed natural.
Broken suits and trenches were worn over voluminous trousers held up by long belts.
Some shapes were oversized, while others gently hugged the body.
There were some great leather and suede pieces, notably jackets with round collars, as well
as some striking waistcoats in charcoal that added to the palette.
The highlight of the show was perhaps a set of abstract prints sketching the outline of
Asian petals, a design that found it's way onto suits and trousers, and even into the
body painting used to show it off.
There was certainly a poetic beauty to it all, a richness of detail that demonstrates
the considerable abilities of Roy Krejberg.
Kenzo is most certainly a luxury label which lives up to its reputation.
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