Lie Sang Bong Spring 2006: ‘Imperial Rose’
Paris Prêt-á-Porter (Paris Women's Ready-To-Wear) Spring 2006
By Mari Davis
Photos by FW
PARIS, Oct 2, 2005/ FW/ --- A U-shaped runway littered with rose petals, love was on the air at the Hotel Intercontinental’s Salle Concorde the moment you enter.
And with the press notes with only the poem “Imperial Rose” by E. E. Cummings written, one was already sure that it was going to be a romantically feminine collection.
And that was exactly what Lie Sang Bon gave his audience, ruffles and lace in different washes of beige, khaki and old rose with splashes of gray, blue and red, just to make it more exciting.
From the opening piece of a sleeveless gray jersey, with spiral color blocks of white, red and blue, it was all about flowing silhouettes that speak volumes of sensuality.
Big flowers made from the same material of the garment, knots that were twisted, tiny pleats shaped like a fan, Lie Sang Bong spanned centuries for his inspiration.
Beginning with the 1960s, to the court of Louis XVI and then the Napoleonic era with Empress Josephine’s gowns.
The two most memorable pieces were the ‘woven’ cocktail mini dresses. Cutting the fabric into strips, Lie Sang Bong made 2-inch ribbons of material, then wove them loosely, resembling the trellis in a garden.
He also did a new take on the trench coat – wide lapels decorated with tiny ruffles that they look like a lei of tiny roses, the usual straight silhouette was cut in half, with a lightly fitted bodice and the bottom was a sheered skirt cinched at the waist with a belt made from the same material.
It was a good collection overall, though it could use some editing, like the 1960s inspired dresses. Good looking as they are, they are too far removed from the Louis XVI’s pageboy trousers and the empire gowns and frocks from the Napoleonic era.
Other than that, it was a good show and great art direction by Sascha Lilie. The stage set captured the audience immediately and set the tone of the collection even before the first model walked out.
|