PARIS, Mar 14, 2003/ FWD/ --- Marc Jacobs' shows for Louis Vuitton always take place in the same enormous glass house in the Parc Andre Citroen, and despite the venue's beauty, it's not the best place to be when the sun beams straight into your eyes and the heat grows stifling. But although the glass was covered with silver reflectors to keep the sun out, the collection Jacobs sent out Monday shone on its own, perfectly capturing the mythical spirits that imbue French fashion -- couture and the subtle art of luxury.

Singer Sophie Ellis-Bextor was there in an icy blue satin dress from LV's current season. After the show, the PETA spokesperson pursed her lips and said, "It's a pity about all the fur in this collection," but clearly couldn't help liking it all the same. "Before, I always had to pay for the clothes Marc designed. But maybe now..." she trailed off, with a mischievous wink.

The fur the singer alluded to came in forms of shaved mink in black and white spots on a coat, or as a snug bolero fitted over a black wool dress. The coats stood away from the body in a fresh and convincing take on the couture tailoring of Balenciaga. There were also hints of Cardin, as curved shoulders on a caban gave way to a stiff pleated sleeve that stopped above the elbow and was fastened with a fat, shiny button.

Lady-like chic attitudes prevailed when long gloves were worn with almost everything, and handbags were seen in alligator, half patent monogram and half tweed - similar to one such boxy coat.

Tiered smoky chiffon dresses were the sort of look that someone like model-turned-actress James King will have to have. In town to promote her film "Bullet Proof Monk," the sweet-natured blonde joined the front row alongside fellow actresses Maggie Gyllenhaal and Elodie Bouchez. Also perched in front were designers Martine Sitbon and Gilles Dufour, and LVMH honcho Bernard Arnault, who held court between four blondes -- Catherine Deneuve and Marianne Faithfull on his right, Lee Radziwill and daughter Delphine to his left.

The sartorial stars of the show were silver balls that came dangling from a shoe like the signature cubes, as edging, or completely covering a tabard dress to give a precious, sparkling effect that spoke, not shouted, glamour and wealth.

Asked whether coats with plating and armadillo tiers were exploring a theme of protection and armor, the designer commented flatly, "If that's the way you interpret it that's just fine. To me it's all just fashion."

A mobbed Jacobs cheered up as soon as Ellis-Bextor, King and Gyllenhaal surrounded him, amidst the incessant flashing of camera bulbs. Looking at his companions whom he described as "three lovely ladies" Jacobs joked, "I feel about five inches shorter than everyone else."

He wasn't the only one feeling slightly left out. While Louis Vuitton president Yves Carcelle took up his usual front row seat, two other LVMH presidents were less lucky. Sydney Toledano of Dior and Celine's Jean-Marc Loubier got stuck back in row four. Do we sense a note of rivalry here?

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs

Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs