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Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
Click on image to see bigger photo.
Paris, Oct 12, 2001/ FWD/ --- There was a remarkable sense of symmetry as we took our seats
Friday for the catwalk show of Louis Vuitton, the last important show of the fall season.
Thirty days ago, perhaps half the audience had taken their seats at the presentation of
Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs’ signature line in New York, the last catwalk event in Manhattan
before the horror of the World Trade Center attacks and the cancellation of the American
collections.
Unfortunately, the similarities did not end there. Jacobs produced an undoubtedly pretty,
occasionally striking and frequently practical collection for Vuitton today - the only problem
was that it felt too much like the collection he showed a month ago on a pier on the Hudson
River.
That’s not to suggest the collection was a poor one, far from it. But in its choice of colors,
fabrics and theme, it reminded one too much of Marc’s signature line.
That said, the Vuitton Spring/Summer 2002 collection was very much in keeping with the new
romantic zeitgeist. Jacobs’ romantics are extremely posh hippies who don huge ethnic belts,
hand-loomed denim culottes and tops, or beautifully embroidered jackets and coats.
Moreover, the models looked extremely fair, especially in a brilliant series of suede and
python dresses and suits with silver trim.
To his credit, Jacobs has always introduced new accessories sparingly to any Vuitton show.
And, inevitably, as Vuitton remains the most profitable luggage and bag maker in the luxury
world, much attention was focused on what the models held, rather than what they wore.
For Spring/Summer 2002, Marc sent out flat, patchwork shoulder bags, with just hints of the
classic LV print, and odd mini handbags - there was even a green frog. At the risk of putting
our foot in our mouth, it’s hard to see either of them being major trends.
The naive air of the collection was further heightened by a great backing music - master spinner
Frederic Sanchez exclusively used Turning Breaks, a big ballad rock band whose sound harked back
to ‘60s California.
However, much of the color palette - mauves, dried out pinks and soft violets - were too
familiar, as was the alternative sensibility. In short, one felt like calling the collection
Marc Vuitton.
Looking a tad harassed, the designer took his bow to brisk applause. Jacobs, previously skinny,
clearly enjoyed his food this summer and has gained a few pounds. His waistline’s progress was
in marked contrast to that of Karl Lagerfeld, who continues to shed kilos. Their names have been
connected recently, as Paris has buzzed with rumors that Jacobs might be about to replace Karl
at Chanel.
Two London stylists swore to me at Dave the other night that Marc had already signed a contract
with Chanel.
However, the suggestion provoked an amused shrug from Bernard Arnault, the lord of luxury and
chairman of LVMH, the 80-label group that owns Vuitton, and two-thirds of Marc’s own fashion
house.
"Marc isn’t going anywhere. Allow me to make very clear that he’s going to be with us for a
very long time," Arnault stressed.
Louis Vuitton by Marc Jacobs
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