PARIS, Oct 11, 2002/ FWD/ --- To the rather indiscreet strains of the lyrics "I feel sexy! I'm coming! I'm coming!" Marc Jacobs marshaled his Louis Vuitton girl brigade and sent them out in quick march formation in a uniform of belted, cap-sleeved, zippered sorbet-shaded satin dresses.

And the point? It was in their hands.

Marc Jacobs is a smart man and he knows that the clothes he produces make up only a very small percentage of sales for the giant leather house.

So it was a smart move to unite the sexy secretary clothes Jacobs showed with exciting new bags that are a result of collaboration with trendy Japanese artist Takashi Murakami.

Murakami reinterpreted the LV monogram print by making it multicolored and cheery, decorating each letter or lotus motif joyfully or overprinting with flowers.

The shapes too were a departure -- like tiny padlocked satin clutches with a red leather bow, or a rigid box painted with a Pokemon character, or a longer studded envelope with silver trim.

But Jacobs didn't let the bags steal the show-- the clothes were more than capable themselves.

With Yohji Yamamoto, Martine Sitbon and Mario Testino sitting front row Jacobs explored the notion of a 1950s housewife or secretary who dresses with a latently potent sensuality and then evolves the wardrobe of Jackie O.

Jacobs' strong collection veered from bodice dresses through a dark red and white dotted patent trench to a sack dress and sensible little tweed suits with a ruffle trim.

Esther Williams swimsuits with ruffles atop the hips will find few takers, but amongst them, at times, rather literal fashion history lesson were looks that could fit into the lives of today's glamour gal.

A sporty jacket like a wetsuit with elbows cut out was snug and sexy as were little jersey and stretch tweed cut out dresses.

While Caitriona Balfe's vest thickly covered with fabric flowers will be a slow mover on the shop floor, something as simple as a blue lace dress outlined with black ribbons will light up many a cocktail party next spring.