PARIS, Mar 16, 2002/ --- When is a fashion show a work of conceptual performance art?

It is whenever Martin Margiela stages one of his collections.

Margiela, who moonlights from his own house designing impeccably classic clothes for Hermes, always stages a memorable show, and his presentation in the Petit Palais was no exception.

Using scaffolding and building materials, Margiela created a half dozen mini catwalks where the models showed off the collection after being led individually by a white-coated assistant.

Matter of fact, the whole Margiela staff wears white laboratory coats right up to his gentlemanly communications officer Patrick Scallon.

It's hard to know what Martin himself wears as her never lets himself be photographed.

After a glass of hearty wine from plastic mugs, the lights went down and the models were escorted in the darkness to their "catwalk," where the assistant turned on a light and the show kicked off.

The collection itself was a blend of Margiela classics, like cloven-toed boots, and his latest experiments.

His big idea this season was a series of sweaters and jackets with calico bibs and silk dresses.

They were tricky to imagine in an office context but looked dramatically new.

He also showed a polka dot dress and a cardigan with wool cuffs and collar, which was most original.

His best idea, though, was series of half 'n' half jackets, mostly in fur.

These were made of two jackets sewn together, so there was a spare sleeve on the front and the back.

You could just visualize the editorial coverage, as all the downtown stylists began scribbling furiously.

Humor is always one of Margiela's strong points, and he earned biggest laugh with a charming mockery of fashion houses' obsession with creating a hot handbag.

To much applause, one of the lab assistants did a tour around the Palais carrying a Perspex box containing a bag covered in white cotton -- rather like a Joseph Beuys art installation.

As the editors and critics all smiled at each other, for one brief moment fashion enjoyed laughing at itself.

Something of a rarity, you'll concede.

Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela