PARIS, Oct 5, 2002/ --- With a big theater space at his disposal in the room next door, Martin Margiela still chose to show his Spring 2003 collection in the foyer.

Margiela is the type of cult designer who attracts huge numbers of fans and groupies and - looking around the show space - buyers too.

Seated on chairs precariously perched on flights of stairs, no one seemed too bothered about safety concerns.

And when the show started they were not disappointed.

But they may have been surprised.

Margiela, king of the obscure and avant-garde, has lightened up - and discovered romance.

Not for Margiela sweet little Liberty prints or pink corsets though.

He instead explored romantic notions in his own way, inserting lace into a paneled skirt and rethinking the function of lining by draping it around the outside of a dress like a toga.

As brave models in dark glasses negotiated their way up and down flights of steps with electric-colored stockings over their shoes, Margiela introduced thin textured silver leather as collars, cuffs, trousers or a side panel on a pleated skirt.

For evening there were tiered wide gypsy skirts with dramatic thick tulle tops or a top in lining with a flying buttress sack back and skirts that hitched to the shoulder and fell in a pile of ruffles.

Heavy kohl eye make-up and jangling bells (what was it with bells at Wednesday's shows?) added somber overtones, but overall Margiela outdid himself and delighted everyone.

Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela

Martin Margiela