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Sportmax Fall 2006: Bucolic Fantasy
Milan Womenswear Show (Milano Moda Donna) Fall 2006
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci

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Sportmax MILAN, Feb 24, 2006/ FW/ --- If the Max Mara lady is an urban go-getter, the Sportmax lady is a nature lover and takes long walks in the woods.

It’s a ‘celebration in the Flemish woods; a wild dream, a weave of cheer and melancholy,’ said the short and sweet press notes unobtrusively inserted in cute Sportmax notebooks that guests found on their seats.

The runway set the tone; full of autumn leaves, hence, one knew even before the first exit came out that it is going to be bucolic. So, when the first model came out wearing an A-line pullover coat that was cut wide and featured flared long sleeves, it was not unexpected. The surprise was the fresh and innovative take on what we call ‘winter basics.’

Furs and thick sweaters of the Nordic tradition were modernized and retrofitted to appeal to the current ‘it’ girls. Sleeveless fur coats with baby collars cinched at the waist had a slimming effect. Sailor collars acted as a double on wide lapels of the reversible raw leather and shearling outerwear.

The parka jacket came in two variants, sleeveless with big pockets; and it also came with long sleeves that can be shortened with a strap, the hem cut extra long down to the thighs, and when the strings were pulled at the hem, an egg-shape appears, making it chic and modish.

Jumpers and skirts were constructed out of leather, giving it a swing with pleats, while leggings were given cargo pants styling making them look like pencil thin pants. Actually, Sportmax proposed wide legged trousers for Fall 2006, some of them wide enough to be reminiscent of the 1970s palazzo pants. But, no, this is not a remake of the 1970s.

Rather, this collection follows the same path as Max Mara, a streamlining of shapes and styles that will define the look of the label in the next several seasons, even within this decade.

There was a big play on texture and volume, as macramé lace was paired with knits and leather. Dresses were bias cut then sheered at the waist while frocks that reaches the ankle were again made of macramé lace worn over a thicker material used as lining.

Though the collection is decidedly contemporary, there is also of modern romance as embellishments from portraits of Memlic and Lucas Cranach were used. And while Max Mara wherein its target market was expanded, Sportmax on the other hand just made sure that it would the first choice of teens and young adults when Fall 2006 comes around.

 

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