Narciso's Shining Moment
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
More photos: 1 | 2
NEW YORK, Feb 25, 2003/ FWD/ --- Next time some know-it-all says you must fly to Europe
to witness a really great collection, tell ‘em to beg, plead or, if need be, steal an
invitation to a Narciso Rodriguez collection.
Though Rodriguez used a limited palette -- black, white, ecru, putty and faded violet --
and hardly varied his silhouette throughout, his fall/winter collection presented Tuesday, Feb 11
in Bryant Park was a superlative display of masterly fashion.
And the critics who matter, no, not giddy Park Avenue billionaires’ daughters, or us humble
scribes, but the true gods of the style universe -- self-assured and world-renowned actresses --
loved the clothes.
"Everything was fantastic. He’s such an… artist," said Sarah Jessica Parker, weaving her
hand like a seamstress before dashing backstage with "Sex and The City" stylist Pat Field
to laud the designer.
"I adore everything," said Kim Cattrall, while Mandy Moore purred, "I’m going to have to
get myself invited to lots and lots of things to get a chance to wear all of this collection."
"If I had to pick my favorite it was that final gown in periwinkle, but everything was great,"
insisted Hilary Swank.
She was right. There was not one duff look in this show and when was the last time you
really thought that about a collection?
We overheard everyone from Eve and Julianna Margulies saying much the same thing to the swarm
of TV crews working the aisles.
What made it so great?
Well, first of all the razor-like cut, worthy of a surgeon’s scalpel, was exceptional.
Narciso’s ability to micro pleat, place panels at novel angles, and trim away to the
essential was first-rate.
But more importantly, the collection looked like no other.
Even if the final columns echoed the screen goddess imagery of the 1930s, the cut, line and
mood never seemed at all derivative.
And this is a collection that will certainly influence fashion – just wait until you see
the High Street brands aping Narciso’s wonderful shellfish panels.
Moreover, Rodriguez has an unfailingly sure hand when it comes to mixing fabrics in the same
item or outfit, be it barathea with velvet, ebony shearling with silk faille or pinstripe
velour with sateen.
He had a lot of fun with zips, running them from the heel to the top of thigh boots, and
from the neck to the knee of redingotes, yet they never looked gimmicky -- just cool and sexy.
Three years ago, Rodriguez departed LVMH’s Spanish fashion house under something of a cloud.
That seemed a setback at the time, but with hindsight, Narciso was just not the right fit
for an overly traditional Madrid label.
His effective boss back then, LVMH fashion domo Yves Carcelle, sat front row tonight,
joining in the cheers that the buffed Narciso took at the show’s end.
Is there life after LVMH? You betcha’.
Last Feb 11, Rodriguez has achieved that sought after Nirvana of all designers.
Meaning that if you were to list on one hand the most un-missable collections during
this international season – his would be one of them.
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