PARIS, Mar 18, 2001/ --- It felt like an examination Monday night when Olivier Theyskens, the favorite to become Givenchy's next couturier, presented his signature collection - an exam he passed with flying colors.

The great and good showed up for the 9.30 p.m. show, though Vogue editor Anna Wintour did first wiggle her way through the packed ranks of fashionistas just five minutes before the tardy show began, thus missing a great fashion moment.

The house of Givenchy still isn't saying who will replace British bad boy designer Alexander McQueen, whose contract is up this fall.

However, Monday's performance erased any lingering doubt that Theyskens can create couture, and great modern ready-to-wear.

Working with a palette where rust replaced the black dominating the French runways, Theyskens took his inspiration from '30s Hollywood idols like Jean Harlow and Greta Garbo.

Though grand and glamorous, the collection was full of highly-wearable individual pieces.

Theyskens's dexterous cutting produced some wonderful curvy jackets in shiny tweed, excellent frock coats and superb jacquard pants suits.

He played around cleverly with proportions with buccaneering culottes, sexy harem skirts and witty frock coats with belts and flap pockets.

In short, his clothes looked unlike anything else we've seen this season.

Theyskens is also a skilled colorist, pairing white satin with rusty suede or coffee leather with lemon, but always in just the right shade.

And the youthful designer, still in his 20s, has a neat artistic touch.

His giant, black Aran cardigan over a purple crinoline made a striking image.

Backstage, Theyskens was congratulated by hordes of editors and friends, as his backer Isabelle Da Silva Santos Stevens sat quietly in the corner surrounded by heavies. "I can say nothing. This is Olivier's evening," Stevens told FWD.

Asked about his future plans, Theyskens replied: "Tonight, all I can think about is how happy I am."

Olivier Theyskens

Olivier Theyskens

Olivier Theyskens

Olivier Theyskens