Ozwald Boateng Spring 2005
Milan Menswear Show Spring 2005
Ozwald Boateng: Takes Center Stage in Milan
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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MILAN, Jun 29, 2004/ FW/ --- Ozwald Boateng takes us on a journey through ancient canyons where sand is spiritual and knowledge is spread via telling stories, the simple things in life are still the most precious and freedom is a mind set.
Maybe its due to his pure and utter catchy positivism that the sun shines on Boateng, and not just literally, causing many of us to melt under insane city heat, but as last minute venue changes happened (not an easy hurdle to deal with as this week alone there are over 800 press registered and numerous buyers) and the who’s who of Milan men’s fashion wanting to check out the new boy in town, the front row filled with Givenchy and LVMH representatives, the show was a huge success, anticipation was put to rest and congratulations were expressed all round.
Ozwald Boateng is the new kid on the block as far as the Milan menswear calendar goes, showing here for the first time as he moves away from what he considers his second home, Paris is not an easy step, but this thirty something talent has, as he admits backstage always known it was going to have to happen sooner or later.
So when asked what his first impressions of Milan and fashion were, the all too gracious down to earth lad replied “tailoring is my strong point and since Milan is the centre of men’s tailoring I have to make a good impression on Milan, the move has been difficult, but good and exciting.”
The city seems to have a good impression of him too, as the young, independent British designer has managed to cause a major stir in the city famed for its fashion giants.
For four days the Italian newspapers and television have been tracking his progress with increasingly frenzied interest, from a retrospective of his short films in Florence on Friday, June 25th to his catwalk show last Sunday and the spectacular post-show party he hosted at the Palazzo Clerici.
Speaking backstage after his show, Ozwald said, “I am incredibly excited to be showing here in Milan. The Italians have welcomed me and the response to my collection has been amazingly positive.”
From a man who has never been afraid to use colour, summer 2005 for the Boateng man is all about hope, spirituality and going after what you want. He mixes the sportive with classical tailoring and it is in his attention to sartorial detail that his skill is recognizable.
Entitled ‘Dream Catcher’, the collection is inspired by the southwestern American desert and Native American Indians. The male torso is proud and elongated through slim and at times long jackets, inserts and fabric paneling on sleeves draw attention to the leanness of the upper body.
With a powerful and confident stride trousers have frogmouth pockets and fall gently to the floor. Polo shirts are new and greatly appreciated. Boateng is a precision cutter and yet contemporary in tastes and mood.
‘Travel and dreams, dreams have always been important and are about what we want. The idea of captivating dreams is fascinating and I am inspired by Native American Indians and their spirituality warrior dream relationship. Once you know what the dream is, its all about going out there and getting it.’
Ozwald Boateng manages to take a concept and turn it into a commercial reality; quality and subtle detail are the keys to his innovation and signature style.
But one question still remain unanswered, Ozwald, when will you design a suit for women? We are all drooling in anticipation.
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