Paul & Joe Fall 2006: ‘Bowler Hat & Leather Boots’
By: Antony Johns
(Photo below: Paul & Joe designer Sophie Albou on the runway Spring 2005

PARIS, Jan 29, 2006/ FW/ --- The British gentleman of the popular imagination has certainly been getting around a bit recently with designers in Paris and Milan borrowing heavily from his wardrobe.

Sophie Albou, designing for Paul & Joe proved herself to be no exception to this trend with a collection for next winter which displayed many elements of which we may soon be very familiar.

Whereas others concentrated on the elegant, luxurious aspects of dressing-up, this was a more relaxed take on his quirks and peculiarities however. A dapper man about town rather than a country gentleman - a dandy if you like.

The looks were firmly anchored in the Sixties with the inspiration coming from one of the cult shows of the period, The Avengers. The French name for this programme translates as, ‘Bowler hat and Leather Boots’.

Literal it may be, but, with its fusing of conservative stuffiness and sexual revolution sartorial codes, it provides a succinct snap-shot of both the period and the collection.

Traditional fabrics were everywhere with tweed, Prince of Wales wool, and corduroy present but we also got pieces such as bright crimson waistcoats, vivid billiard green velvet suits and geometric shapes, turquoise and orange on brown cashmere jumpers.

Floral motifs were also in attendance with red rose and green leaf chintz patterns adorning an overcoat to give an effect you might expect to see on an eccentric aunt’s lampshade.

All of this could be either striking or garish depending on how you look at it but the combinations certainly worked best when the more outlandish inspirations were toned down: a modish grey three piece woolen suit with black chalkstripes was stylish with its light paisley shirt and tie for example whereas a polka dot neckpiece, striped shirt and checked coat combination seemed to be trying a bit to hard.

With gray sheepskin bomber jackets we were on safer ground and a navy herringbone double breasted military style short coat worked well with its velvet boat neck collar and cuff details.

In general the collection was a lot of fun with its vibrant colors, bowler hats and umbrellas. If nothing else though it served as a reminder that eccentric is something you just can’t try to be.

Menswear Spring 2004 (Photo by FW)

Menswear Fall 2004 (Photo by FW)

Website: www.paulandjoe.net

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PAUL & JOE
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