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More Brit-Retro at Miu Miu
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
MILAN, Jan 18, 2003 /FWD/ --- Most of you are probably too young to remember the Fab Four's
early Number One's and them wearing "Please, Please Me" suits.
Not Miuccia Prada, whose strongest moment in today's Miu Miu catwalk show was a trio
of collarless suits in beige and blue Lurex, which summed up the updated-Brit-retro mood
of this collection and, for that matter, half the shows in Milan.
It's curious that in such uncertain times, the Italian designers en masse have been
referencing English tailoring and stiff-upper-lip style.
But Miu Miu for fall/winter 2003 was no slavish homage.
In among the Mods and pop singers were some impressive footwear and innovative ideas,
especially a series of sweaters that will be the most copied in the Italian season.
It's hard to reinvent the pullover, but Miuccia managed to do so, creating a top that
was halfway between a T-shirt and a pullover.
Using a broken check pattern, she paneled it on fine wool sweaters with mono-color backs,
and placed a wonderful new pink optical design on a top, and suede elbow patches on the
crook of the arm.
The footwear, wing-tipped boots or elongated brogues in forest green, taiga and aged cherry,
were uniformly strong.
They looked great under jodhpur-style pants and mega windowpane trousers.
But here's a final request.
Can we please stop cutting off the pants three inches above the ankles, skip
the embarrassing skinny ties and never let a look like that god-awful super suede bomber
jacket and matching pants on to a Miu Miu runway again?
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